Tip #1: Head straight to Old Delhi for the food.
The lanes around Jama Masjid, through Matia Mahal and into Chandni Chowk, form one of the greatest halal food corridors on earth. Everything in the Muslim lanes is halal by default. Seekh kebabs, nihari, biryani, and butter chicken, all descended from Mughal court kitchens. A full meal costs under INR 400. I ate my way through these lanes for three consecutive days.
Tip #2: Eat at Karim's.
Karim's sits in a narrow alley off Gali Kababian, south of Jama Masjid. Founded in 1913 by a family that cooked for the Mughal court. The mutton burra, seekh kebab, and biryani trace back to imperial recipes. Expect a queue after 7 PM, but it moves fast. This is not a restaurant. It is a lineage.
Tip #3: Pray Jummah at Jama Masjid.
Built by Shah Jahan in 1656. A courtyard that holds 25,000 worshippers. Jummah here is an experience that stays with you: the courtyard fills, then the streets fill, then the lanes around the mosque fill. Thousands of worshippers, the imam's voice carrying through speakers. Arrive early for a spot inside.
Tip #4: Go to the Thursday evening qawwali at Nizamuddin Dargah.
The shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, one of the great Sufi saints of the Chishti order. The Thursday evening qawwali is a 700-year-old tradition. Singers sit near the tomb, the harmonium drones, and the poetry rises until the crowd sways with it. Go before Isha. You do not need to understand the words.
Tip #5: Use the Delhi Metro.
Twelve lines, 250-plus stations, clean, efficient, air-conditioned. It covers all major areas and saves you from Delhi's relentless traffic. Women-only carriages are available and recommended during rush hour. A single ride costs INR 10 to 60. Buy a smart card for convenience.
Tip #6: Fall back on vegetarian food when uncertain.
Delhi's vegetarian food is world-class, not a compromise. Chole bhature, paneer dishes, dosas, dal makhani. If you are ever uncertain about a restaurant's halal sourcing, the vegetarian menu is genuinely extraordinary. "Pure veg" restaurants are marked with green signs and are everywhere.
Tip #7: Day-trip to the Taj Mahal.
Agra is 2 hours by the Gatimaan Express or 3 to 4 hours by car. The Taj is a Mughal masterpiece and the most famous Islamic monument in the world. Do not skip it. Go early in the morning for the best light and smallest crowds.
Tip #8: Watch out for air quality in winter.
Delhi's pollution peaks November through January, with AQI regularly above 300 (hazardous). Bring N95 masks if visiting during this period. If you have respiratory issues, avoid November and December entirely. February and October are cleaner alternatives.
Tip #9: Carry cash in Old Delhi.
The stalls and small restaurants in Old Delhi's lanes often do not accept cards. ATMs are widespread elsewhere in the city. INR 500 to 1,000 in cash is enough for a full day of eating in the Muslim quarter. Street food runs INR 30 to 100 per item.
Tip #10: Drink only bottled water.
This applies everywhere in Delhi. Do not test it. Eat at busy stalls with high turnover (follow the crowds) and you will be fine. Old Delhi's food stalls have been feeding millions safely for centuries.
Delhi requires patience and street smarts, but the Mughal heritage is unmatched. The food in Old Delhi's lanes ranks in the top three things I have eaten anywhere.